One More Chance C.A.T.S.
Feral Help
FERAL CONFINEMENT
(This was written to woman who had a feral she needed to keep confined while he was being medicated (It was put into his food). In his tiny quarters, he had no room other than to lay in the litterbox or in the carrier that was placed into the cage and this left no room for his food).....
Kim, I am sending you a very crappy drawing of a crate with a shelf, and a cage with a hammock. While you are messing with the cage or crate, take the cat in the carrier out of the cage/crate so you can work without scaring him or yourself.
If you have a dog crate, undo the back two screws and the side screws (this will be fine, the feral will not get out if you do not try to move it by using the handle on top and pulling it apart, but I get the impression you are a smart cookie and can figure out that part, lol.) Slide a piece of wood (plywood 1/4"-3/8" is fine)or stiff peg board into the slot created by the two halves of the crate. Be sure it is strong enough for the cat, 1/4" is probably sufficient. If you do not feel secure that he will not get out, you can duct tape the halves together, but I haven't had one escape yet. The shelf should stick out a few inches on each side to allow for flex when the cat is laying on it.
For a cage, you get a piece of material and cut down the corners to just the size of the bars of the cage, you will need more material for the ties than you expect, believe me. A larger piece than anticipated is better than one too small. Tie the two pieces of the corners together around the bars. This will make a hammock. I have used regular sheet material and none of my ferals have torn the material or fallen through.
I put the shelf and the hammock to the back of the cage/crate so the box is in front and easier to clean. The food can go into the back area. They need the headroom for the potty, but to eat they crouch anyway.
If the cat decides to hide behind the box, don't be afraid to feed/water when he is in there, they usually do not attack.
Now, to get the cat back into the cage/crate. This will take 2 people. Have his food and water and box already in there. Cover the cage with a sheet or towel or something so it is completely covered and will look complete safe and inviting. He may mess it up a little during this, but that can be fixed tomorrow. Have another sheet or towel ready. What my husband and I do is I will open the cage door and he will stand there holding the carrier somewhat into the cage with the door inside (the door is unlatched but still closed. ) I will close the door up against the carrier and put a towel over the cage and carrier so when the cat gets out of the carrier, he cannot see there is any escape other than to go into the cage. My husband will try to snake his hand over the top of the carrier and open the door. When he has exited (sometimes you have to bang on the carrier to scare him out of it), my husband will close the carrier door and pull back and I will close the door quickly trying to leave no gaps where the cat can think he can get out. They are usually fooled with a sheet into thinking they cannot get out that way, be sure there is no daylight showing or he will make a beeline for it. Once you have the door closed, there is usually no problem with the cat ever trying to get out if you are standing there. You make a formidable force and he will hunker away from you so don't be too afraid that he will run out if you are opening the door to change the box or giving him food. Now if you reach to the other side of him to get a bowl or something, then you may force him to try to run out. After you have him securely in the new cage, cover it completely and leave him alone until the next day.